Tuesday, April 16, 2013

A Cultural Puzzle: Chernivsti

Like many of the cities on our tour, Chernivsti has a complicated, yet fascinating history. It was occupied by the tribes of the Slavs-Tiverias, which differs from much of Romania that was initially occupied by Dacian tribes. By the 14th century, Chernivsti became apart of the new political unit of Moldavia. During its years as a Moldavian entity, the area developed trade relations with the Kingdom of Poland helping the city arise as a urban commercial center. After 1514, Chernivsti floundered under the Ottoman Empire until Austria took power in 18th century after the Turkish-Russian War. The land was briefly under Romanian control after 1940, and has since transferred to Ukrainian control.

What I really enjoyed about Chernivsti was the obvious presence of the Austrian aesthetic in the city. I was expecting a city that had the drab, dead architecture of a post Soviet state. But instead, we were met with many pastels and architecture that clearly carried the influence of Vienna. Though I have never been to Vienna, many people commented on the similarities and I kept describing it as a dilapidated Disney World because of the various colors and friendly facades.


Under Austrian rule, the city experienced great growth of trade and educational, cultural and scientific establishments were constructed. One of these structures included the Chernivsti National University, which is known for its beautiful architecture and construction. The university was established on March 31, 1875 by Franz Joseph I, emperor of Austria. Since its conception, classes have shifted from instruction in Ukrainian to Romanian, with some courses being offered both today. Since its opening, the University has played host to numerous ethnicities which further speaks to Chernivsti as a center of multicultural interaction. I couldn't believe the absolute beauty and splendor of both the outside, but also the inside of the building. It was the first time in the trip that the colors and designs actually made my jaw drop like when I arrived in Istanbul. Many of my photos from Chernivsti were to record just that, the surprising beauty.

In general, I found Chernivsti a unique experience because it was my first trip behind the Iron Curtain. It was distinctly different from Western nations in even the simple daily pleasantries. No one spoke English and the majority of TV channels were in Russian, if not Ukranian. The people had the disposition of those growing up under a communist regime: not necessarily friendly, but hardworking. I would like to explore more of the former Soviet states to learn about the peculiarities of those cultures that functioned under the control of the USSR. 




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