The Beauty of Moldova

Though our time in Moldova was brief, there were pictures that I couldn't help but share. After the way people talk about the dangers and poverty of Moldova, I was shocked at how developed it appeared. Perhaps my perception was reduced because we had spent so much time in developing countries, but I was pleasantly surprised by both the rural and urban appearance of Moldova. The food was the most incredible of the trip and I really enjoyed learning about composition of the Moldovan houses of the past. I also enjoyed getting to see parts of Chisinau and understand the influence of the French, Stephen cel Mare and the Russians. I would like to see how Moldova develops in the future, because to me, it seemed no different than Bucharest or parts of Cluj. The experience at the monastery was also extremely rewarding and something I will never forget. It was the perfect timing to be at such a site and I would certainly encourage UNESCO to include it on the list of World Heritage Sites.

A Cultural Puzzle: Chernivsti

Like many of the cities on our tour, Chernivsti has a complicated, yet fascinating history. It was occupied by the tribes of the Slavs-Tiverias, which differs from much of Romania that was initially occupied by Dacian tribes. By the 14th century, Chernivsti became apart of the new political unit of Moldavia. During its years as a Moldavian entity, the area developed trade relations with the Kingdom of Poland helping the city arise as a urban commercial center. After 1514, Chernivsti floundered under the Ottoman Empire until Austria took power in 18th century after the Turkish-Russian War. The land was briefly under Romanian control after 1940, and has since transferred to Ukrainian control.

What I really enjoyed about Chernivsti was the obvious presence of the Austrian aesthetic in the city. I was expecting a city that had the drab, dead architecture of a post Soviet state. But instead, we were met with many pastels and architecture that clearly carried the influence of Vienna. Though I have never been to Vienna, many people commented on the similarities and I kept describing it as a dilapidated Disney World because of the various colors and friendly facades.

Under Austrian rule, the city experienced great growth of trade and educational, cultural and scientific establishments were constructed. One of these structures included the Chernivsti National University, which is known for its beautiful architecture and construction. The university was established on March 31, 1875 by Franz Joseph I, emperor of Austria. Since its conception, classes have shifted from instruction in Ukrainian to Romanian, with some courses being offered both today. Since its opening, the University has played host to numerous ethnicities which further speaks to Chernivsti as a center of multicultural interaction. I couldn't believe the absolute beauty and splendor of both the outside, but also the inside of the building. It was the first time in the trip that the colors and designs actually made my jaw drop like when I arrived in Istanbul. Many of my photos from Chernivsti were to record just that, the surprising beauty.

In general, I found Chernivsti a unique experience because it was my first trip behind the Iron Curtain. It was distinctly different from Western nations in even the simple daily pleasantries. No one spoke English and the majority of TV channels were in Russian, if not Ukranian. The people had the disposition of those growing up under a communist regime: not necessarily friendly, but hardworking. I would like to explore more of the former Soviet states to learn about the peculiarities of those cultures that functioned under the control of the USSR. 

Painted Monasteries of Bucovina

Religion is a major part of the Romanian culture, whether the person be of German, Hungarian, Jewish, Ukrainian, Polish or Romanian heritage. Because we saw the significance of the church in the culture, it surprised me that the Lonely Planet guide book only included two lines on it, but those two lines explained a lot of the diversity in the country. According to the book 86.7% of the population is Eastern Orthodox Christian, 7.5% Protestant, and 4.7% Roman or Greek Catholic. The remainder is split between Muslims, Jehovah's Witness and Judaism. Typically the three largest minorities attribute their beliefs to the three most prevalent religions, with Romanian's associating with Eastern Orthodox, Germans with Protestantism and the Hungarian's with Catholicism. One would assume that this creates even greater cause for tensions amongst the groups, however, the Romanians have appeared to overcome even this obstacle. I really enjoyed hearing about the people in Sighisoara who have three churches within such close proximity who socialize flawlessly before dividing themselves into their personal denominations on Sundays.

One of the most spectacular representations of religion in the history of Romania is the multiple painted monasteries in the region of Bucovina.


Many of the monasteries data back to the 15th and 16th century frescoes and are celebrated Byzantine masterpieces. By making stories of the Bible and lives of the most important Orthodox figures to educate the townspeople. This helped the spread of religion and plays a role in the proliferation of Eastern Orthodox Christianity.

 Even though I was sick during the tours, it was something I simply couldn't give up because of the once in a lifetime opportunity. It was amazing to learn about repetitive messages that were consistent on all of the monasteries as well as the differentiations between them all. My favorite image is still judgement day on the back of the second monastery. It was so full of life and color it was not hard to believe that people could have faith in such magnificence. Another really fascinating aspect of the monasteries was the depiction of the calendar. Though it initially seemed complex, it was impressive the way they had created such a simplistic system for the laypeople to understand.

Cluj Napoca

Unfortunately, due to the weather, I don't have many pictures of Cluj, but it was quite a beautiful city and I think I gained the most from our meetings here. Some of its major landmarks include Union Square, St. Michael's Church, the Calvinist Reformed Church, St. Peter and Paul Church and Fortress Hill. I'm really glad that we got to see the city from Fortress Hill, because not only did I capture the wonderful image above, but it was fun to look at a 3D map while Ursula pointed out the important areas.

With a population of 310,243, Cluj remains an extremely important city both culturally and economically. Because of its size and heritage, it experienced rapid industrialization relative to the rest of the country in the 1960s. It became home to many businesses including factories, hospitals and financial institutions, some of which have become nationally known brands. Its economic development can also be seen in other ways, such as the presence of the countries largest mall and the presence of international outlets. Its cultural heritage it notable in many ways. Cluj-Napoca is home to many extravagant churches and cathedrals in order to fulfill the needs of the many minority groups present. They also have wonderful establishments to support the arts.  In 1919, the National Theater and Romanian Opera opened with its first Romanina production to commemorate the Union of Transylvania with Romania in 1918. These have allowed access to cultural events for Romanians and foreigners alike. I, for one, was very impressed by the Cluj Orchestra during out visit to the opera and always find it a privilege to enjoy the culture aspects of other countries.

Another fascinating aspect about Cluj Napoca is the prevalence of students and universities. The city itself has six state universities and seven private universities with about 100,000 students living and studying in the city at any given time. The most prominent university, Babes-Boylai University, was officially established in 1872 and currently has about 50,000 students enrolled. What I found amazing about the University is that students can take a variety of majors in either Hungarian, Romanian, and to a lesser extent German. Once again, I was astounded at how well the Romanian government and people handle their multi-ethnicity. Though the Romania currently struggles to be competitive in the international domain, its hard for me to believe that raising this generation with ethnic tolerance and multilingual will benefit Romania in the future.

Another thing that was more apparent in Cluj than it had been in Sibiu, or any of the other cities that we visited briefly was the communist influence. On December 21st, 1989, in accordance with Ceausescu's speech, a violent revolution burst out in Piata Unirii and twenty two people died throughout the city. This history with communism was more apparent in the occasional dilapidated building. Though major efforts have been made to modernize Cluj, given the severity of the communist regime, it has been a long slow process. Certainly, a visit in 20 years would be a much different experience.

Although the city itself was interesting, my favorite part about Cluj was the visits with the Hungarian party and political advisor of the Roma King. It is these sort of interactions that make travel so special and make you realize the value of Franklin. Both men opened my eyes to the difficulty of not only procuring minority rights, but maintaining them. The Hungarian representative was so charismatic and intelligible that it was difficult to believe he was a politician. He outlined several of the difficulties that Hungarians will face in coming years including mixed marriages and party divisions. This undermines the purity of Hungarian culture and creates greater challenges for passing minority legislations if there is disagreement within the group. I think that the maintenance of education in their mother tongue will be one of the most important aspects of maintaining Hungarian Romanian culture and citizenship. 

The meeting with Mr. Lefters was equally enchanting with a touch more fascination. I had heard folklore about the Roma and am accustomed to Western European opinion of the gypsies, but it engaging to hear about the culture from a knowledgable source. After listening to someone as intelligent and Mr. Lefters discuss the Roma culture, it appears as though ignorance is the fundamental cause of discrimination, as with many forms of racism. He predicts that only 10-15% of the Roma people are characterized as thieves and mooches and they've been exiled from their own communities. Mr. Lefters said that he was off to a meeting the next day in Bucharest to discuss the King's opinion that such thieves should be imprisoned and that their actions are not condoned by the Roma people. I would like for this sentiment to resonate with as many as possible, because many Roma have suffered at the hands of 10% of a population that they don't even associate with. Despite and because of  their distinct cultural practices, the Roma culture should be preserved and respected. 

Târgu Mureș: The Hungarian Aesthetic

Current Mures County Council 

Inside the Palace of Culture

During our drive from Sibiu to Cluj Napoca, I really enjoyed passing through Târgu Mureș where we got our introduction to the Hungarian Aesthetic. I loved looking at the intricate roof tiles on the buildings and the interior of the Hungarian Palace of Culture was incredible. Though the level of design is slightly overpowering for my own taste, it was interesting to see something so traditional. It was also fascinating to really begin to understand the significance that majority cultures play in Romania. Even in Sibiu, Germans were an extreme minority and the election of a German mayor seemed to be more a result of his character and not necessarily his heritage. In Târgu Mureș, however, to see that the Hungarian influence was so strong that they merited a cultural palace in the center square really solidified the preponderance of minorities in Romania. 

Inside the Palace of Culture

The Palace of Culture was constructed in the early 1900s due to Budapest's desire to establish culture centers throughout Transylvania. Because Târgu Mureș was one of the larger cities in the area, it was also established that a building in which cultural events could take place, such as dance, opera and plays was a necessary investment for maintaining Hungarian heritage. As noted above, the exterior is richly decorated with various colors, patterns and mosaic that was typical of the Hungarian style of the period. The inside is decorated in a neo-Hungarian fashion that was typical of the international noveau movement. 

One of many stain glass windows

The most exquisite part of the palace was the stained glass window display. What I clearly remember is being stunned by the delicate, elaborate designs.  I was, and still am, very curious about what techniques were used and how long it took to complete them. I only wish that I remembered more of the stories behind them. I remember thinking about how sad the stories were and wondering if it was tied to something in Hungarian history. I was disappointed to find how challenging it was to find any additional research on the stories. 

The story of Târgu Mureș itself is quite fascinating. It was founded at the the center point of three geographic, economic and ethnic areas: the Transyvanian Field, the Mures Valley, and the Nirjului Valley. This brought Hungarians, Romanians and Germans together in the same place. In 1616, the town earned the Hungarian name Marosvasarhely, or market place on the river, and has touted it ever since alongside the Romanian name Târgu Mureș. The change in demographic is also fascinating as it shifted from an extremely Hungarian dominated population with almost 85% majority in 1850 to now a minority of 42.9% in the 2011 census. The Romanian population has increased from 6.0% in 1850 to a slight majority of 52% in 2011. For me, it was the first time I had been a place that was so comfortably and truly biethnic, in that both groups were not only currently living there, but originally from the region. I wonder how they know which language to speak when they enter the shop and if its common for Romanian children to grow up speaking Hungarian in that area. 

Hermannstadt: Sibiu and The German Influence in Romania

The Coat of Arms of Hermannstadt

The old moat of Sibiu

Functioning as the most important center for German minority in Transylvania since the early 12th century, it is easy to see the German influence in the architecture and formation of Sibiu. Constructed by Transylvanian Saxons, the structure of the city featured extremely efficient means of protection and is one of seven fortified citadels in Transylvania. Financed by guilds, the Germans were easily able to fund the project and much of the wall still protects the 17th century construction within. Sibiu, or Hermannstadt as it is referred to by Germans, avoided attack due to the complexity of its construction which gave them the defensive upper hand. The old city was surrounded by a moat, followed by an intricate double wall system. Sibiu's original fortifications included 39 defensive towers, five bulwarks, four gates and five artillery batteries. This level of fortifications made it nearly impossible to attack the citizens within. One of the more interesting tidbits that Ursula shared was that Romanians had to be outside the walls by nightfall otherwise they would face legal ramifications. I find it incredible that, #1, a minority could influence the majority so effectively, and #2, that this discrimination of Romanians in the past has been overcome to the point that both Romanians and Germans can function together seamlessly. Not only on daily tension absent, but the Romanian majority voted a German mayor into office which seems extremely progressive to me.

The Wall of Sibiu

Sibiu was shockingly more beautiful than Bucharest, and I was much more comfortable in the city. The wide open Piata Mare reminded me of the beautiful piazas in Italy and it was lovely to see the children and families enjoying themselves in the sunshine. It also featured some of the most obvious German architecture, such as the elegant yellow and green clock tower. Because of the impressive buildings, the square was declared an architectural monument site by UNESCO. I was pleased and surprised to see that so many of the wonder of Romania have become protected by UNESCO because there are so many wonderful things in the country that I didn't even know existed.

Another extraordinary building that we visited was the Evangelical Cathedral. It was built in 1520 on the site of the old Roman basilica. I was amazed by the extraordinary architecture and how beautiful it looked in contrast to the blue sky. Seeing the cathedral was complemented by our visit the German bishop of the Evangelical Church. He talked about the struggles the church has faced since the migration of many Germans after the fall of the communist regime. Because of shrinking communities, the church functions beyond its typical capacities to provide community, health and education to the remaining German villages. They hope that such provisions might encourage the young people to remain in Romania to help the country develop to its full potential. It was wonderful to hear his insight and know that someone recognized the importance of education and incentivizing young people as crucial aspects of Romania's future success.

The Daily Romanian

During out visit, I also took interest with the Romanian daily life. After my time as an exchange student, I have always taken a particular interest in how different cultures live at a very basic level because tourists rarely get to see it. I tried to capture as many daily life moments as possible with my camera, however it sometimes feels invasive to record people's personal moments. I also wanted to look into the general standard of living and lifestyle of Romanians.

On the weekends, it was common to see Romanian's out and about with family and friends. They dressed in modern fashion and enjoyed the pleasures of life, such as food and drink, to the fullest. The ease at which they laughed and were jovial reminded me of my Argentine families, even though their wrinkles show a life of past strife. I always enjoy finding that people are just people, no matter where you go and that even though we are taught to tolerate differences, once you meet somebody "different," you find that they aren't really.

 The old man on the right was another jovial character that I noticed in the streets of Sinai. I enjoyed watching two cultures blend as he observed the crazy Americans obsessed  with the street dogs. In many of the smaller villages, you could see elderly gentlemen and women meandering together and enjoying coffee. It was nice to see a culture that valued togetherness and enjoying a slower pace of life.





Despite the modernity witnessed in Bucharest, the daily life of village people attested to the countries status as a developing country. According to Horizon of Hope, an online cultural awareness site, Romanians typically do not indulge in "mega stores" and instead get most of their produce from local markets. Agriculture, and the jobs it provides, still play a large role in the economy. During our visit, I saw many people working employed in agricultural products, such as the man transporting lemons. During our drives, it was also obvious that many families had their own plots of land on which to produce their own food. Because of this reliance on the agricultural sector, and the economically handicapped nature of post-communist countries Romania has struggled to compete internationally. This is obvious in the prevalence of horse-carts for transportation and extremely small houses.

The Romanians are hoping to increase their competitiveness through strong government and social emphasis on the importance of education. The country has achieved a 97% literacy rate and has legally accommodated minorities to enable them to learn in their own languages. This is a huge advantage that minorities have in Romania that many do not experience in other countries. This will hopefully help Romania avoid human capital flight. The photo to the left is of University of Bucharest, the oldest university in Romania, established in 1868 by Prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza. Romanian citizens now have access to free higher education in any of the universities throughout the country. Unfortunately, young, educated people often leave for Western Europe to attain higher salaries. To truly boost competitiveness, the government will have to create incentives for young people to stay.

Unfortunately, in spite of the great improvements to daily life, poverty and homelessness still exist within the country. It was not uncommon to see beggars in the streets of cities, and many buildings were vacant or riddled with graffiti. According to the World Bank, Romania has among the lowest health indicators in Eastern Europe particularly in rural areas. Though the increased GDP could indicate improvement of standard of living, since the transition to capitalism, there have been great improvements for the few while the many struggle. The World Bank also reports a poverty rate of 21.5%, with the poverty line set at about $3.30.

The Mysteries of Vlad: Tepes? the Impaler? or Dracula?

Though Romania has many claims to fame, such as the founder of Dadaism and Nobel Prize winner Herta Mueller, the most prominent international figure that hails from Romania is Vlad the Impaler. During our trip, we saw various adaptations of Vlad's character and significance to Romania, from the historically accurate to the outlandishly cartoonish.

Ruins of the Royal Court near Vlad's statue

 In the old city of Bucharest, we received the most historically accurate depiction of Vlad's story. In the ruins of the Royal Court, there stands a statue commemorating his tremendous contribution to Romania. Though typically associated with Transylvania, being born in Sighisoara, Vlad played an extremely important role in Wallachian politics as the ruler throughout the second half of the 13th century. He was known for extreme cruelty and punishment for his enemies which often included slow impalement. With this preeminent reputation of horror, Vlad was able to help secure Romania's land, specifically from the Ottoman Empire and remained dedicated to his task until his eventual death in 1476. Some of the mystery and intrigue surrounding Vlad remains because of the unknown location of his tomb.

Because of these mysteries and his history of violence, Bram Stoker, author of Dracula used Vlad Tepes as a loose inspiration for the famous vampire, Dracula. Vlad Tepes' father had belonged to the Order of the Dragon, a constituency dedicated to the protection of christianity. Therefore, Vlad was often referred to as Dracul or son of the dragon. It is from this that Stoker derived Vlad's namesake, Dracula the Vampire. This books huge success in the West propelled Dracula to the center stage, and Romania has suffered the association ever since.

View from one of the many castles that claim a connection to Vlad Tepes

During our trip we visited many places that laid claim to part of the Vlad Tepes' story. These places included the castle on the top of the Carpathian mountains on our way towards the Ukraine, as well as the wonderful soup we enjoyed in Vlad's birth house.  One of the most ridiculous experiences was Club Dracula. It was fascinating that Romanian's were willing to play up the story to such an extent, but it was an entertaining, good time. Overall, it was interesting to learn about the different depictions of Vlad's life and see the places that were inspired by the book.

The Cocktail of Bucharest

Upon arrival to Romania, you are promptly met with what can only be called the "cocktail" of Bucharest because of its combination of the new and the old, the west and the east, and the Latin and European influences. The streets are surprisingly clean and well kept with bike paths intertwining the parks and streets. The prevalence of recycling also suggested a society that was moving beyond subsistence living to the life of plenty. The modern, classy storefronts suggested the same. I am still unsure of what I was expecting per se, but I was pleasantly surprised by my findings in Bucharest. 

One thing that I really enjoyed about the visit to Bucharest was getting to learn about history hands on. After taking the quiz in class, it was really beneficial to be there to fully understand the significance of certain people, places and events in historical, communist and modern terms. For example, the statue of King Carol I, who was Romania's first modern king "imported" from Germany, appears to recognize his greatness. His reign was fairly successful in that he helped ensure Romanian independence from the Ottoman empire, increased prestige, and developed the foundation for a free market economy. Given these accomplishments, one would expect his monument to be accurately depicted. However, the statue  is riddled with errors, such as the horses feet indicating a death in battle and the extremely disrespectful depiction of the horse's tail position. Whether intentional or not, the mistakes demonstrate the Latin side of the culture despite their German leader. For Romanians,  good enough is just that, good enough and there is no need to make it 100% accurate. 

The Palace of Parliament is another historical legacy that we had the fortune of visiting. Unlike King Carol's statue, the building was perfected down to the last intricate detail. The size of the structure speaks to the the size of Nicolae Ceausescu's ego. Inspired by a visit to North Korea, The Communist leader's narcissism and megalomania dictated his need to construct one of the most expensive and expansive building projects of all time, with the building still claiming the title of 2nd largest in the world. The building took 700 architects and over 20,000 workers working in 24/7 shifts to complete the building in 6 years. The project was and remains hugely controversial because of the state of the Romanian society during the final years of the Communist regime. While Ceausescu spent millions on the creation of an impractical building, his people were starving from lack of purchasable goods and dissenters lived in fear of their lives. Despite the painful history, the Parliament remains in use today and serves as the house of the current government, though much of the building remains unused. I personally couldn't fathom what I was seeing because it was so large and so extravagant, it seemed implausible that it would exist in a country that until recently couldn't achieve basic economic indicators of success. I can only imagine how people who lived through the horrors of the Communist regime regard Ceausescu's masterpiece. 

The final historical monument that caught my eye was the Memorial of Rebirth. Another monument that is reviled by many Romanian's for its ugliness and muddled symbolic meaning, I actually found the aesthetic rather appealing. It was extremely eye-catching which made the foreign bystander stop and gawk at its strangeness. Though not visually beautiful, the captivating nature makes people stop and wonder about what happened and why it is there. That is the point of a monument, especially those which commemorate great loss and triumph, to get people to stop and remember or learn about what happened. While I fully understand that the Romanian people do not find it to satisfy the true elements of the revolution, I think an artist would have been hard pressed to

construct something to evoke the pain and relief of those that survived the brutal times.

The above images illustrate howe the history of Romania and Bucharest is a cocktail of stories and ideologies. But a cocktail that I found even more bizarre and notable was the mixture of architectures. Inspired by their Latin counterparts, the early developers adapted many elements of French architecture so much so that Bucharest has been referred to as the "Paris of the East." After the emergence of the Communist party, architectural preference switched yet again to combine any style which suited communist extravagance. Now, some buildings lie decrepit, others' full glass walls glimmer in the sunlight and some you just aren't really sure who built them, when or why. Calling Bucharest a beautiful city was always on the tip of my tongue, but I just couldn't quite make sense of the mismatched visual that I was confronted with every time I turned the corner. Though not beautiful, it was certainly visually fascinating and I have included some photos below to illustrate the uniqueness.

The facade of a historical building wraps around a cubical, modern glass building. 

The national bank, inspired by delicate French architectures alongside a modern bank